Cooktown (Part 2), Sunday 16 to Tuesday 18 June 2019

The re-enactment of Cook’s landing at what is today Cooktown was scheduled for 10:00 am. We expected there would be a big crowd, so we were up for early showers. We had had our third and last night in the RV Rest Area, and tonight we had a site booked in one of the caravan parks. We drove into town, bought some bread rolls from the bakery, and found a level parking spot on the main road almost straight across from the site of the re-enactment. We had our breakfast inside Matilda—cereal and coffee for Katie and Ian, My Dog, apple and yogurt for Dexter.

We took out our folding chairs and set ourselves up in a very good position in front of the stage where the re-enactment was to take place. The stage was a depiction of the HMB Endeavour. We wore our 1770 Festival singlets that we bought a few weeks ago from the town of 1770, and it attracted the attention of the lady in period costume shown in the fourth last photo in the previous post. While we waited for the re-enactment to start, the announcer tried hard to encourage audience participation by getting us to sing the chorus of a traditional sea shanty called A-Roving (The Maid of Amsterdam):

A rovin’, a rovin’
Since rovin’s been by ru-i-in
I’ll go no more a rovin’
With you fair maid.

Dexter was sitting nicely beside Ian with his harness and lead on, and people sat around us in chairs or on the ground.

The re-enactment was a serious production that took over an hour to cover the 48 days that James Cook and the crew of the Endeavour spent ashore. There were over 50 actors and production staff. Here is a summary of the story that was told to us, with some details taken from the booklets Historical Endeavours and 48 Days A Shared History purchased from the James Cook Museum in Cooktown:

On 29 April 1770, Captain Cook and His Majesty’s Bark Endeavour arrived at what is now Botany Bay in NSW. The ship departed 8 days later without making contact with the indigenous people.

HMB Endeavour anchored in Bustard Bay near what is now the town of 1770 in Queensland on 23 May. The name of the bay came from the shooting of a 17 pound “bustard” bird by the landing party and eaten. The bird was an Australian Bustard or Plains Turkey. The crew slept one night on the ship, and Endeavour left.

There were three more brief landings in Queensland. Then, around 11:00 pm on a clear moonlit night of 10 June, the Endeavour struck a reef and stuck fast. She was severely damaged on what was to become known as Endeavour Reef. To lighten the ship, the crew threw overboard six cannons, casks, anchors and stores—50 tons or more. On the high tide the next evening, the Endeavour was floated off the reef.

Everyone on board, including Cook and Banks, took turns at manning the pumps to remove water flowing in from the breached hull. A midshipman suggested a temporary repair called fothering, in which a sail was used to make a type of pillow, filling it with dung, wool and other stuff, and the pillow was placed against the hole. This slowed the water intake significantly, and it took another week to find safety in what is now Endeavour River, or Waalumbaal Birri in the local Aboriginal language.

On 17 June 1770, 86 men along with livestock and stores came ashore in the area that is now Bicentennial Park. The Endeavour was beached up against the shore, and the hole was found to have been partially plugged by a large piece of coral. It only took a few days to repair the ship, but adverse wind and tides made refloating her difficult.

Unlike at Botany Bay, there was significant contact between the Europeans and the local Aboriginal people, or bama. Six meetings occurred with the bama, all initiated by the bama. The first was on 10 July. There were friendly encounters, and then a dispute arose over turtles that had been taken by the Europeans on board for food at a time that all the bama knew was outside the turtle hunting season. The last meeting was on 19 July and was the first recorded reconciliation between Indigenous Australians and Europeans. Sydney Parkinson, an artist brought along by Banks, recorded 132 words and phrases of the local languages. The re-enactment portrays several of these meetings, and is a fascinating story in itself involving kangaroos and turtles.

The Endeavour was eventually refloated, and it crossed the moth of the Endeavour River on 4 August. However, she had to wait outside the harbour due to unfavourable winds until she departed on 10 August.

There were another seven landings made before Cook left Australian waters for a refit in Batavia, at the time a Dutch colony, now called Jakarta.

The re-enactment production team did a great job portraying the story of the landing of the Endeavour and the adventures of its crew over the next 48 days. The Marines fired real rifles, and the loudness of the shots was unexpected for everyone. The first time it happened, Dexter escaped from his harness into the people sitting on the ground around us. The second time the guns were fired, Dexter darted off again and sought refuge among the Aboriginal elders who were sitting in reserved seating behind us. Everyone was very good about this, and Ian got help to put Dexter back into his harness. When someone said that the guns were to be fired again, Ian led Dexter back to the motorhome, and locked him inside with a window open as it was starting to warm up. Ian ended up missing a fair bit of the re-enactment. When the re-enactment was over, we returned to Matilda and Ian was worried that Dexter might have jumped through the open window during several more gun shots. We found Dexter cowering in the cabin behind our seats, traumatised. Katie went off to find food, and Ian heard “Fire in the hole! Fire in the hole!”, then another blast nearby that was louder than all the guns fired together. This was from a canon that had been fired immediately across the road from where Matilda was parked. That upset Dexter again, but thankfully that was the last blast we were to experience.

The Marines with their period rifles, with Aboriginal huts in the background
First meeting between Cook and the bama
Local Aboriginal people played a huge role in the re-enactment
The first kangaroo was shot and eaten
Captain James Cook, played by Ric Ashcroft, seated at his desk in the HMB Endeavour

Katie returned fried rice and dumplings from the market for an early lunch in Matilda. We intended to buy some fresh tropical fruit from a stall that we saw on Saturday, but that stall was not there on the Sunday. We checked into the Cooktown Caravan Park and booked an additional night, then spent the rest of the afternoon doing the normal motorhome chores. We had light and healthy salmon and salad rolls for dinner, and Cornetto ice creams for dessert (not quite so healthy, but nice).

On Monday, we visited the Cooktown IGA and did some substantial shopping. We then parked in a shady spot opposite the James Cook Museum.

The James Cook Museum at Cooktown is one of the National Trust’s most important museums, and they also sponsored the Cooktown Discovery Festival. Entry on the previous Saturday was free, but we could not fit it into our day. We did not know what to expect, as Ian does not generally like museums. Katie stayed in the motorhome to look after Dexter, and Ian went into the museum—it is $10 entry for seniors. This museum is worth every cent, and more. The building was originally a Catholic convent and a girls’ school. There is still a very narrow spiral staircase used by the students. Ian joined a tour and learned about the convent’s beginnings—the nuns from Ireland had a hard life in tropical Cooktown.

Very narrow spiral staircase for use by the students of the girls’ school

Ian learned more about Cook’s landing, and the Chinese people who came to work the Palmer River Goldfields. One of the Endeavour’s five anchors and one of its six canons are on display, having been recovered from the Endeavour Reef. Meanwhile, the shadow that was covering Matilda moved, and it became too warm inside the motorhome for Katie and Dexter. After Ian’s museum visit, we found another shady spot near the RV dump point and water supply, and we had lunch of ham and salad sourdough rolls. The rolls from the Cooktown Bakery were lovely!

In the afternoon, Ian dropped Katie off at the museum for her turn. She was fascinated by the story of the early Chinese settlement at Palmer River.

Chinese people in Far North Queensland

Ian then headed to the Cooktown cemetery with Dexter on the advice of several of our friends. Ian looked for the oldest grave, the youngest grave, and the most interesting grave. The oldest grave belonged to a lady called Elizabeth Cooper. She and two other people drowned off St Patrick’s Point on 16 August 1874, but only Elizabeth’s grave is marked. The cutter Platypus, with eleven people aboard, capsized during a reef trip. There was later controversy about whether enough was done by the other eight people to save those who drowned. The site of the grave is also a mystery because the grave is well away from the main part of the cemetery. Maybe, this was the main part of the cemetery in those days.

The oldest grave—Elizabeth Cooper
Most recent grave
Another old grave, a Jewish one, from 1875, or as the sign says, the Hebrew year AM 5635
This was Ian’s favourite grave

Ian also found the Chinese Shrine. Over 300 Chinese people were buried in this area between 1873 and 1920. The shrine was built in 1887. Chinese emigrants feared they might die, never to return to the land of their ancestors. Most of those initially buried here were later exhumed and returned to China. The three characters on the shrine, written in ancient script, read Tjin Ju Tsai, which means, Respect the dead as if they are present.

The Chinese shrine

We had a very interesting day in Cooktown, but not too strenuous or traumatic. We enjoyed a satisfying dinner of crumbed lamb cutlets, new potatoes and Greek salad.

On Monday morning, we packed up and were out of the caravan park by about 9:30 am. We stopped at the Bakery to get more of those wonderful sourdough rolls that we loved, then headed for Atherton.

We had three stops, the first at Black Mountain. Although this looks like a hill of basalt, it is actually made of granite. The mountain is a significant and respected place for Aboriginal traditional owners of the area. Known as Kalkajaka, meaning place of the spear, Black Mountain is the focus of several Dreamtime stories. The granite is 260 million years old.  The top of the pluton developed a jointing pattern, which led to fracturing. Water penetrated the network of fractures and facilitated weathering when the top of the pluton was exposed by erosion. The dark appearance of the rocks is due to a film of lichens and other small encrusting plants growing on the rock surfaces.

Black Mountain

Our next stop was the iconic Lion’s Den Hotel, which you would pass by if you drove to Cooktown from Mossman via Cape Tribulation along the Bloomfield Road. It was a bit early for a beer, so we had some tea and coffee, and we ate some goodies we bought from the Cooktown Bakery as the hotel did not have any morning tea food. The Hotel has an adjacent, riverside camping ground, which was lovely and green when we were there. It is certainly worth considering for an overnight stop next time we are up this way.

Where the hotel is located used to be a thriving tin mining area, which later became known as Helenvale. The hotel was established in 1875. The hotel’s name came from the name of a tin mine in the mountain opposite the hotel.

Katie and the Lion
The Lion’s Den bar

Our third stop was the Byerstown Range rest area that we found on the way north.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Cooktown, and felt that we should seriously consider coming back next year for the 250th anniversary of Captain Cook’s landing there, but we would leave Dexter behind.

Cooktown (Part 1), Thursday 13 to Saturday 15 June 2019

When we reached Cooktown on the afternoon of Thursday 13 June, we had driven a total of 3,888 kilometres from home, The Sanctuary, at Rutherford in the Hunter Valley of NSW over 40 days. Except for the last segment from the Atherton Tableland to Cooktown, we had hugged the east coast of Australia. There is a coastal route from Mossman, just north of Port Douglas, to Cooktown, but the Bloomfield Track north of Cape Tribulation is for four-wheel drive vehicles only. The road from Mareeba to Cooktown is longer, but sealed all the way, and that is the one we took Matilda over.

Since Port Douglas, we had discussed our trip so far, and considered whether we wanted to continue with the next leg to Normanton and Kurumba in the Gulf of Carpentaria, and then the following leg to the Top End of the Northern Territory. We agreed that all three of us had had a wonderful trip full of adventures so far, but Ian and Katie were longing for the comforts of our home in the Hunter. Dexter, on the other hand, just seemed to live for each day. The thought of several more thousand kilometres of driving, with generally longer distances each day, was a bit daunting for Katie and Ian. Ian was having pain in his neck from driving, and we were unsure whether we would be able to get the awning fixed on the way. Otherwise, Matilda was going well, and we were all quite happy.

Ultimately we decided to head home after Cooktown, taking mostly an inland route through Toowoomba where we wanted to catch up with another Rob who was a work colleague from the Geological Survey, and Ian wanted to check out fifth wheelers at Winjana RV. We would still go to Victoria in October for the CMCA annual rally and then drop south to see friends in Melbourne, but the Top End, Lake Argyle, the WA coast, Margaret River, and the Nullabor Plan could wait for next year.

We really appreciate those readers and followers of our travel blog. We hope you enjoyed reading about our adventures as much as we have enjoyed reporting them.

We came to Cooktown for two reasons. Firstly, it is the most northerly town on the east coast of Australia that you can drive to by staying on the bitumen. Secondly, Ian wanted to learn about James Cook’s landing there in 1770 to repair the Endeavour after running aground on the Great Barrier Reef. Ian wanted to immerse himself in the history of the event. Be warned however, we have posted a lot on Cooktown as this place ended up greatly surpassing our expectations, and we stayed much longer than planned. We have broken Cooktown into two parts. This is Part 1 from Thursday to Saturday. Part 2 from Sunday to Tuesday follows.


We left Kerribee Rodeo Campground at Mareeba early in the morning, and after refilling a gas bottle at Elgas, headed north. We stopped at the Byerstown Range Lookout for lunch. It was a grey day, and there was not much of a view. The toilet was good, and there were some hanging signs with lots of interesting information about the area.

Byerstown Range lookout and rest area

We arrived at Cooktown and were surprised to find that all caravan parks were full because we arrived just before the weekend of the annual Cooktown Discovery Festival held during 14 to 16 June. This year marks the 40th staging of the event that highlights Cooktown’s unique environment, heritage and culture, and commemorates James Cook’s landing and 48 day stay in 1770. We could not believe our luck, having also arrived a few weeks earlier in the town of 1770 in time for a similar event—the 1770 Festival. A re-enactment of Cook’s time here was scheduled for Sunday morning. When we let Grant and Jacqui know what happened, Jacqui recommended that we stay for that as she had seen it and was impressed.

We enquired at the Cooktown Caravan Park, where the manager indicated that a vacancy for a powered site for a motorhome will come up on Sunday 16 June. We had already found online a RV Rest Area at the local racecourse where we could stay for up to 3 nights for a donation to the amateur jockey club. We booked 16 June at the caravan park, and headed off for the racecourse, which was only a couple of kilometres from town. The RV Rest Area was quite full of vehicles, but there were some boggy areas. We found a spot that was high and dry, and we set up our camp with chairs, the table and the dog pen. Cooktown Council staff came around to check on campers to ensure that they do not overstay. They were friendly and helpful, gave us a program for the festival. They said that the RV Rest Area was likely to get packed over the weekend.

The program mentioned a cruise on the Endeavour River the next morning with a botanist from James Cook University of North Queensland. Ian was very interested, so Katie gave her permission for Ian to go, and she would stay onshore and look after Dexter. Ian made a phone enquiry, was told that the cruise was dog friendly—there was already another dog booked. It was a warm night with light drizzle at the RV Rest Area. We enjoyed Thai red curried prawns with pumpkin and coconut rice for dinner.

What a pleasant surprise to Katie when she stepped out from Matilda on Friday morning to see a beautiful rainbow at our campsite.

Rainbow at the racecourse

We laid out our table, chairs and Dexter’s pen to mark out our site at the RV Rest Area in the hope that we would still have a place to park when we returned in the afternoon after our river cruise. We parked at the wharf precinct, and met Nick from Riverbend Tours, Darryn Crane from James Cook University, and Sally the chocolate Labrador. The cruise boat was full, and we had a total of 29 people and 2 dogs.

Darryn led the Botanical Cruise up the Endeavour River, spoke about Joseph Banks and Dr Daniel Solander who explored the area when they landed in 1170. Joseph Banks financed the scientific team on Cook’s voyage around the world. He took with him Swedish botanist Dr Daniel Solander. They did a 3-day long boat trip up the Endeavour River, which was named by Cook. During their 48 days onshore in the Cooktown area, Banks and Solander collected 325 species of plants, but surprisingly no mangroves, which are the most common plant along the Endeavour River. Darryn indicated that the journals of Banks and Cook are available online.

Darryn, the botanist from James Cook University

Darryn mentioned that now Australia has 22 of the world’s 70 species of mangroves. Mangroves are grown in the intertidal zone of estuaries, are therefore flushed twice a day with seawater. They can cope with low oxygen and high salinity. Mangroves are an essential component of ecosystems that are the ultimate source of much of our seafood. Mangroves are also world champions at sequestering carbon dioxide—better than the same area of rain forests, although rainforests cover a much larger area of the world.

An interesting fact is that Solander and Banks did not see any coconuts during their time despite specifically searching for them. We are confident that coconuts were introduced into Australia from elsewhere. However, Australia has fossil coconuts 10 million years old.

We searched for evidence of crocodiles in the river, which reminded me of our fruitless crocodile search in the Daintree River on our honeymoon. We found tracks that are most likely to have been made by a crocodile, but we did not see any live crocs.

Looking for crocodiles among the mud and the mangroves
Possible crocodile tracks, or Aquaman
A peaceful life way upstream

We had morning tea of blue berry muffins and feta and sundried tomato pesto tarts from the Driftwood Café with our tea and coffee. Dexter and Sally also enjoyed the cruise. This was a novel experience for Dexter, who Ian had to restrain to stop him diving into the water.

During the cruise, Darryn mentioned that he was also leading a botanically themed bushwalk the next morning. This was to start at Grassy Hill and finish in the Botanic Gardens. We met Tony Roberts, the curator of the Gardens, and asked him if we could take Dexter. Normally, dogs are not allowed in the conservation reserve, but he was prepared to turn a blind eye this time. It seemed that both Dexter and Sally were keen to go.

Dexter enjoyed the cruise

After the cruise, we walked around the main town centre and it was quite quiet. Stalls were setting up for the market. Ian was able to get a haircut in one of the hairdressing shops.

While we were walking around the parks near the riverbank, we met a young lady called Shadia from Chile who liked Dexter and wanted to play soccer with him. We enjoyed watching Shadia interact with Dexter. She is obviously a good soccer player. Katie took a short video and posted it on Facebook: .

Statue of a gold miner to commemorate Cooktown’s 125th anniversary. Cooktown was established as a substantial port in 1873, 103 years after Cook’s landing, to support the Palmer River goldfield.
Memorial to Captain James Cook
The landing place of the HMB Endeavour was well marked

Back at the RV Rest Area, our camp setup had not been touched, so we were able to slip back into our spot. That night, there were less RVs than the previous night, which was a bit surprising.

We were up early on Saturday morning, skipped breakfast, and met the shuttle bus to take us into the Botanic Gardens for our bushwalk. The driver had no problems with having Dexter on board, and Dexter behaved beautifully. We were pleased to be able to leave Matilda at the RV Rest Area so we were assured of keeping our camping spot. Eventually a crowd congregated at the Gardens, including Sally the chocolate Lab. Darryn and Tony arrived, and the shuttle bus took us in two groups to the lookout on the summit of Grassy Hill for photos. We understand that James Cook and Joseph Banks climbed the hill several times to get a good view of the coast and to help plan a safe route out through the reef.

Another informative plaque at the summit of Grassy Hill
Endeavour River from Grassy Hill lookout
Cooktown from Grassy Hill lookout

We walked down the road to the start of the track to Cherry Tree Bay. There we found yet another useful plaque that depicted the HMB Endeavour beached against the bank of the river for repairs. We were happy that Cooktown proudly displayed its history to visitors.

Plaque at start of the track to Cherry Tree Bay
Briefing at the start of our botanical bushwalk, with Darryn holding the straw hat and Tony pointing the way to go

After our briefing, Darryn led the walk while Tony backed up the rear. Darryn told us that Joseph Banks funded a scientific team of 10, including a geologist. This was particularly interesting to Ian who is a retired geologist. As the plaque at the start of the track depicts, the English befriended the Aborigines whom they called “Indians”. We would learn the full story at the re-enactment the next day. We made lots of stops to look at interesting plants.

Like Dexter, Sally the chocolate Lab enjoyed the bushwalk

Impressive nuts on an old cycad “tree”

When we arrived at the beach at Cherry Tree Bay, Dexter pulled Ian towards the water and had a splash at the water’s edge.

Cherry Tree Bay, where Dexter couldn’t help drawing attention to himself

We then had a very steep uphill section at the start of the walk back to the Botanic Gardens. One old fellow struggled, and Tony stayed with him and saw him safely to the end. The main group also stopped at one spot, but we decided to walk ahead. We were caught in a light shower, but the activity kept us warm. We were the first ones to arrive back at the Gardens. We took the shuttle bus back to the town centre which was well alive with festival activities. We were so hungry and couldn’t resist the temptation of coffee and steaming hot donuts with zero nutritional value. Probably not the healthiest breakfast choice we could have made, but we deserved a reward after our three-hour strenuous bushwalk! We also ate the doughnuts while sheltering in the Navy stall during another shower.

Sand sculpture by Dennis Massoud

We watched the street parade which was very entertaining. It was far from glamorous, but the people involved obviously enjoyed themselves. Unfortunately, we missed the street parade in the 1170 Festival.

We went to the Sovereign Hotel for lunch. There was no local brew, and Ian found the 150 Lashes was yuck—what is it that pubs do to make a good beer taste off? He had a glass of not bad chardonnay with a barramundi burger. while Katie had avocado quiche and salad. This was the bottom pub, and they had put on some local entertainers. The top pub featured more prominently in the festival program, but a clear sign out front indicated that dogs were not welcome at all. A sign at the Sovereign Hotel indicated that dogs were not allowed on the premises past it, but this left two tables in front of the sign, so that’s where we sat while Dexter slept under the table and nobody said a thing.

After lunch, we caught the shuttle bus back to the RV Rest Area where all three of us crashed for the rest of the afternoon. We have no recollection of what we did for dinner—we were probably too pooped to care! We settled in for our third and last night at the RV Rest Area, and again, to our surprise, there were fewer RVs than the previous night despite being in the middle of the festival.